How Made in Italy Sneakers Are Crafted

by Alessandro Canullo

How Made in Italy Sneakers Are Crafted

Technical design of crafting artisanal sneakers.

Indice

 

Chapter 1: Design and Planning

Key Elements of Design

Shape and Model
The process starts with defining the shape: from timeless, elegant lines to bold and innovative contemporary designs, every sneaker begins with a unique vision.

Carefully Selected Materials

Material selection is essential to ensure durability, comfort, and beauty.

Key options include:

  • Premium leathers such as full-grain calfskin and Italian suede.
  • Technical fabrics like ballistic nylon and breathable microfibers.
  • Custom details: contrast stitching, vibrant or neutral colors, glossy or matte finishes – each element is tailored to meet both aesthetic and functional needs.

The Role of Materials: Quality and Innovation

At the heart of Italian shoemaking traditions, materials play a pivotal role. In the workshops of Marche and other renowned regions, quality is an absolute priority.

Leather: The Soul of Footwear
Leather is the most widely used material for crafting high-quality shoes. Among the most sought-after types are:

  • Full-grain calfskin, known for its softness and durability.
  • Nappa leather, lightweight and flexible, ideal for luxury footwear.
  • Italian suede, perfect for casual and elegant styles.

A series of leathers and fabrics present in the Accricco laboratory for the realization of sneakers.

Innovative Technical Fabrics
Thanks to continuous research, technical fabrics have earned a prominent place in footwear production. Examples include:

  • Breathable microfiber, providing comfort even on the hottest days.
  • Ballistic nylon, durable and lightweight, often used for sporty designs.
  • Water-repellent fabrics, ideal for challenging weather conditions.

 

Sole Materials
The sole is essential for ensuring comfort and safety. Italian workshops use cutting-edge materials such as:

  • Microporous rubber, lightweight and flexible, perfect for casual shoes.
  • EVA (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate), valued for its lightness and cushioning properties.
  • Natural rubber, offering excellent grip and wear resistance.

Detail of EVA soles.

Chapter 2: Cutting and Material Preparation

After carefully selecting the materials, the next crucial step is cutting the leather. This stage combines advanced technology with artisanal skill to achieve flawless results while minimizing waste.

Advanced Technologies: CAD and CAM for Precision Cutting

Modern Italian shoe factories rely on state-of-the-art machinery to achieve precision and efficiency. Here’s how CAD (Computer-Aided Design) and CAM (Computer-Aided Manufacturing) play a role:

  • CAD: Creates detailed digital models, ensuring optimal cutting plans and precise material management.
  • CAM: Controls precision machinery, delivering perfect cuts based on CAD specifications.

The Importance of Handcraftsmanship

Despite the use of advanced technologies, the role of master artisans remains irreplaceable. Their expertise ensures:

  • The ability to adapt cuts to the natural grain of the leather, minimizing waste.
  • A meticulous eye for material quality, selecting the best parts for use.

Traditional Cutting Tools

Alongside precision machinery, traditional tools such as specialized knives and die cutters are still used to execute highly detailed and customized cuts.

Padding and Reinforcements

Padding and reinforcements are critical to ensuring comfort and durability:

  • Internal padding: Made from soft materials like memory foam or microfiber, providing optimal foot support.
  • Structural reinforcements: Applied to strategic areas like the toe and heel to maintain the shoe's shape and enhance durability.

Chapter 3: Stitching and Assembly – The Heart of Production

The stitching and assembly phase is one of the most critical stages in crafting footwear. This is where art and technique converge to transform materials and components into a superior-quality finished product. Every step demands precision, craftsmanship, and years of experience.

The Art of Stitching: Techniques and Mastery

Stitching is the point where the various pieces of the upper come together to create the shoe's structure. Skilled artisans bring their expertise to execute flawless stitching, essential for ensuring both durability and aesthetics.

  • Machine stitching: Used for consistency and efficiency in production. Achieving impeccable results with a machine still requires years of practice and precision to balance thread tension, stitching paths, and craftsmanship quality.
  • Hand stitching: Though less common on a large scale, this technique is often employed for decorative details or special finishes, adding a unique and distinctive touch.

Shaping the Shoe: Bringing It to Life

Once stitching is complete, the assembly phase begins. This step is crucial for giving the shoe its final shape and ensuring comfort and stability.

  • Upper shaping:
    The stitched upper is placed over the last, a 3D model of the shoe. Artisans carefully mold the material to fit the desired shape, requiring great skill to avoid wrinkles or imperfections.
  • Lasting insole:
    The upper is temporarily attached to the insole, which forms the base of the shoe. This temporary bond keeps all components in place during subsequent stages, ensuring precision and stability.

Tensioning and Refinement:
Artisans use specific tools to stretch the upper, ensuring the material adheres perfectly to the form without wrinkles or deformations. This step helps define the shoe's profile and comfort.

Chapter 4: Finishing and Quality Control – Perfection in Every Detail

The final phase of the production process focuses on finishing and quality control. This is when every shoe is perfected and subjected to meticulous inspections to ensure it meets the high standards of Made in Italy footwear.

Final Details: Shoe Finishing

The finishing phase is dedicated to enhancing the shoe's appearance and quality, giving it a distinctive final touch.

  • Leather treatments:

    • Polishing: Leather is treated with natural waxes or specific products to achieve a shiny or satin finish, depending on the desired style.
    • Water-repellent treatments: Protective coatings are applied to increase resistance to water and stains.
    • Hand-painted finishes: Some models require hand-painted effects, such as patinas or personalized gradients, for a unique look.
  • Detail Refinement:
    Every element, from the edges of the sole to the visible stitches, is manually inspected and finished to eliminate any imperfections.

  • Accessory application:
    Laces, metal inserts, logos, and other decorative elements are placed and secured with precision to ensure both aesthetics and durability.

Quality Control: High Standards for a Flawless Product

Before leaving the workshop, every shoe undergoes rigorous quality checks:

  • Stitching and bonding: Each stitch is inspected for strength and uniformity, while bonding, particularly between the upper and sole, is tested for durability.
  • Finish inspection: The shoe’s surface is carefully examined to detect any imperfections in the leather, color, or treatments applied.
  • Durability and comfort tests: Shoes are tested for flexibility, wear resistance, and comfort to ensure they meet the highest standards.
  • Careful Packaging:
    Once all inspections are completed, the shoes are packaged using protective materials, such as tissue paper and customized boxes. This ensures the product reaches the customer in perfect condition.

Conclusion: A Journey of Tradition and Innovation

Creating artisanal sneakers is more than a production process; it is an art form that embodies the essence of Italian shoemaking tradition and technological innovation.

Each pair of sneakers handcrafted in the workshops of Marche is the result of a long journey of dedication, passion, and expertise. Choosing artisanal sneakers means embracing quality in every form: from premium leather to precisely crafted details, from comfort to durability.

Made in Italy sneakers are not just a fashion statement; they are a symbol of authentic and timeless style. Every pair tells the story of skilled hands, carefully selected materials, and a commitment to excellence.

Wearing artisanal sneakers means carrying a piece of Italian excellence – a perfect blend of past and future, standing out with elegance and personality on every occasion.

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